Dressmaking by Fales Jane

Author:Fales, Jane. [from old catalog]
Language: eng
Format: epub, pdf
Tags: Dressmaking, Costume. [from old catalog], Textile industry and fabrics. [from old catalog]
Publisher: New York, Chicago [etc.] C. Scribner's sons
Published: 1917-03-25T05:00:00+00:00

breaking up the reflection of light, serves as an excellent mill nisi to the batiste ;m<l cambric surfaces, which have unbroken lustrous surfaces from the use of mercerized

threads or because of finish.

(b) Wools. Some broadcloths, because of their smooth and polished surfaces, have a lustre which gives in drapery marked light and shadow; in contrast, Serge, whipcord, or diagonal has, because of its distinct weave, an uneven surface which breaks up the reflections of light and has little variation in Light and shadow.

(<) Silks. The smooth surface and very high finish of satin give it a brilliant, almost metallic, high light and a. Very deep shadow; in contrast, i ripe i/c chine has a sonic what rough, pebbly surface which, by lack of reflection of

light, gives a light and shadow without much contrast.

In any folds or drapery tin- light melts gradually into the shadow. Ordinary velvet has scarcely any high light, while mirror and panne velvet have a strong light, and corre Spondingly deep shadow.

(d) Linen. Contrast is secured both by weave and finish. Some fabrics, such as those with a satin weave, have a high lustre, while many others with a plain weave have practically none.

Text ure, as can readily be seen, is an extremely subtle quality and for that reason is often overlooked in the consideration of a costume. Its influence on color is very great, and it is in turn affected by color but must be considered and treated as a factor by itself. Because of its subtlety, the unconscious successful use or abuse of it frequently makes or mars an artistic creation, downs are often seen which have beautiful harmonious colors and grace of line, yet lack something for complete success.

To the casual observer the lack will be indefinable, while

the- experienced designer will probably observe at once that the combination of text urc is wrong. It is just as necessary

for successful designing to have the proper combination of

texture to secure a pleasing play of light as it is to have harmony of color. The kind of combination depends entirely upon the effect desired. As in color work, violent

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